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Trans   Kausian   Trail

At the Border to Russia

Flickr.com

Georgia  West  Kaukasus

9/19/2021

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2021 09 Trans Caucasian trail day 24
We should have concluded that there must at one time have been a road up here, in sight of the buildings and the well we found. But we did not and stumbled for another km in the riverbed, before we had to climbed up the bank, caus of heavy white water in front of us, when we hit on the 90year old road that had not been used for at least 30years. Before deserting the place the took all wooden beams and all the roofing down to build a new village further down in the region, as we later found out. Happy to follow a trail which ment we would be making 3 to 4 km an hour, instead of 1ti 2inthe riverbed, we found ourself faced with roaring rivers that hat cut deep ravines into the side of the valley we where following. We had three joices every time, climbing up the side if the river till we could cross it, climbed down and try to furt it or just climbed down the wall and up the other side which was Lashas preferred method. So we did some more climbing and sliding, while the horses acted as if it was their dayly bread. Finally we were down at the riverbed again, crossing it meant 1m of roaring grey water under neath you when we finally reached the road at about two o clock in the afternoon. 5min later we run into a man cutting hay and when we told him where we had started and where we had come from his eyes lit up and he gave us a big thumbs up grinning over his whole face. We came to a newly built cement road and followed it leaving our river, carrying it's grey water to the black see. Finally we reached the turnoff to the village Zeskho hat was on the hiking signs. And from there it was supposed to be only to more ours to Tsana the village that was promised to have a guesthouse. Since we only had the iron ration left, we needed to find a meal tonight and preferably a roof over our head, cause all we had worn was socking wet. When we reached Tsana, there was a guest house but it was dark and closed. We asked the three people living in the village if they would accommodate us, but no of them were eager to help, the most accessable person, an elderly lady, that wore a very alternative set of clothes, said she could not help us cause she only had one room to herself.
After we tried the other two gents, returning from the end of the village, she was waiting at the side if the road which I took as a good sign. Lasha and her got into a conversation, that I could not follow, but while they were discussing things, like we would be happy with some tea and bread, a car pulled up with a family, and the husband immediately inquiring what was going on. And after evaluating the situation declaring that the elderly lady was going to supply us with food, helped by his own wife, and we would sleep on the porch of the guesthouse while the horses would be grazing around the house. He spoke and disappeared. When we had taken down the gear and settled ourselves in the porch the elderly lady called and we sat on her Terrassa, being served fish, mashrooms and french fries, plus tchishdver, no spelling mistake here, a local corn cheese hashbrown, tomato salade, two different wines and tchatcha (schnapps). Coffee and tea following. The lady's name was Merry and she was not related to the gentleman who commanded the situation. She and the lady who supplied some food also, (she was very good looking) and spoke fluent english - her sister had married, living in Chicago, but she had not visited yet, because she could not obtain a visa to the US - both sat down with us at the table and we heard stories about the village and her Sister, while the kids were getting a ride in our horses. We explained the saying that strangers are just friends you have not met yet, and how happy we were to enjoy Georgian hospitality. After having tasted and commented on the wine the younger lady went back to her family and when I started cleaning up the table I was told by the elderly woman, in no uncertain terms, that no I should not meddle in her job of cleaning up. She brought us bread and cheese, candies and apples she had gathered herself, for breakfast and lunch the next day and told us how to access the toilet in the guesthouse.
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